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Miss Chen
01월17일
Miss Chen
拥有胖乎乎的爪子的熊童子类多肉俘获了不少花友的芳心,其中又分为白熊和绿熊,今天我们就来谈谈白熊怎么养。有的花友认为白熊和绿熊一样,其实这样理解是不正确的,可以说,白熊比绿熊更难养一些,本文整理至一位花友养殖白熊亲身体会,希望能给正在或者打算养白熊的花友一些参考。
基本环境资料: 花友方位:暂时就定为北方吧(毕竟我国除了南方就是北方嘛~)。 温度:最高温没超过35℃(貌似在我印象中应该就这么热了,近年来可能会更热点吧),不过体表和地表温度肯定要超过40℃。 湿度:相对干燥(北方的雨大家都知道说来就来说走就走,很少拖泥带水的,南方的小编已哭晕~)。 养殖经历: 白熊我(花友自称)入夏以后一直放在室内窗台上,没有特意的吹风扇通风,一边的窗子是24小时开着的,状态一直很好,后来我搬出去露养过一周,没有直射阳光,全锦的叶子开始出现焦糊,当然整个熊也开始变脏,状态并没有进一步的提升,只是确实有红爪子开始出来,但是和整株状态比起来感觉有些得不偿失,所以又搬回了室内。 我的建议是,白熊不需要露养,确实有碍瞻观,遮阳功夫做不好还容易晒糊,如果要红爪子,那么等待温差了,温差有了爪子自然就有了,不必在盛夏反复考验白熊的生命力,这种天气本就不适合熊。 关于浇水,我没有特别小心留意,只是端盆法,变轻了就浇,冬天室内特别干燥的时候,有一段时间忘记浇水,结果叶子开始干枯脱落,掉了一半,现在看到的叶子都是开春以后慢慢长回来的。
养殖白熊的重点细节 下面几点很重要,也是我曾经犯下的错误: 一、 所谓的露养,对于光来说并不等于毫无遮挡的暴露在紫外线下,必要的遮阳是需要做的,一些不耐晒的品种就算放在遮阳的地方边缘都会出现焦糊,紫外线是很毒的。 二、 所谓的喜光,并不一定是指希望完全曝露于紫外光线之下,很多品种要求的是光照时间长,比如放在正南的窗台可以享受全天光照又不会曝晒,很多球都是这样的。 三、黑腐不一定都是浇水引起的,我在好几篇帖子里都提到过,降温才是王道,太热了自己就把自己煮熟了,因为多肉体内汁水太多,就像人中暑一样,就算整个夏天不浇水也一样可能会黑掉。降温,保持根部水润,才是安全度夏的法宝。 四、夏型种和冬型种的概念,人家是指原产地的夏天和冬天,不是咱们这的夏天和冬天,原产地资料还是建议看一看,尤其一些娇气的品种,人家的夏天不超过30度,放到夏天40多度的地方,还巴望人家不休眠不黑腐?呵呵~ 白熊跟绿熊比起来,确实是娇贵难养一些,尤其是全锦叶片极易脱落,又不容易长大,唯一的有点就是好看,白茫茫一片,所以白熊看上去更加洁净可爱。 入夏后白熊大面积的脱叶,个人认为:第一,要降温; 第二,结合养殖环境使根部保持水润,不要过分干燥(白熊缺水也是掉秃的节奏)。 因为任何植物都需要水,沙漠里的也要水,人家接地气,根扎得老深,人被渴死了他们也死不了,但是盆栽的就靠主人给点喝的,总看帖子说断水了最后还是死了,还是黑了。说实话,你有没有想过是断水而死的。
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Miss Chen
01월17일
Miss Chen
对于给多肉施肥,一直是困扰花友的难题之一,例如多肉要什么时候施肥、施什么肥、施肥有什么要注意的地方等等。面对这些问题,有花友就总结了4W 1H 1L法则,我们快点往下阅读了解一下吧~ 多肉施肥的4W 1H 1L 一、“What”施什么肥? 1、专用颗粒缓释肥,此种肥料会随着温度的升高逐渐释放肥力,不会直接灼烧根部。 2、氮肥,促使树木茂盛,增加叶绿素,加强营养生长;氮肥太多会导致组织柔软、茎叶徒长,易受病虫侵害,耐寒能力降低;缺少氮肥则植株瘦小,叶片黄绿,生长缓慢,不能开花。氮元素主要来自空气中的氮气,通过氧化反应溶于雨水,如果雨水淋太多,多肉会徒长。包括碳酸氢铵、尿素、硝铵、氨水、氯化钠、硫酸铵等。 3、磷肥,使树木茎枝坚韧,促使花芽形成,花大色艳,并能使多肉生长发育良好,多发新根,提高抗寒、抗旱能力;磷肥不足树木生长缓慢,叶小、分枝或分蘖减少,花果小,成熟晚,下部叶片的叶脉间先黄化而后呈现紫红色。磷元素主要来自于自来水,虽然含量低,只要你不是为了多肉开花育种,对多肉来说足够了。包括普通过磷酸钙、钙镁磷肥等。动物骨骼中也富含磷元素,所以在盆底中拌入少量骨粉可以促进多肉发根。 4、钾肥,能使树木茎杆强健,提高抗病虫、抗寒、抗旱和抗倒伏的能力,促使根部发达,球根增大,并能促使果实膨大,色泽良好;缺钾会导致树木叶缘出现坏死斑点,最初下部老叶出现斑点,叶缘叶尖开始变黄,继之发生枯焦坏死;钾肥过量,会引起节间缩短,全株矮化、叶色变黄、萎蔫,甚至枯死。 钾元素主要来自赤玉土、火山岩等颗粒土。目前施用不多,主要品种有氯化钾、硫酸钾、硝酸钾等。
二、“When"什么时候施肥? 一般施肥都选择在生长期和花期进行,花期施肥即花剑冒头开始,半月一次,随同浇水一起施下。一直施到种荚成熟为止。需要控制花期,协调开花时间的个体,可以少施或者不施。 三、“Where"施肥在哪里? 1、基肥:栽种时直接掺入土壤中,常用的有草木灰、骨粉、贝壳粉、腐熟的禽畜粪等,由于大多数品种的多肉植物都喜欢含有一定量石灰质的土壤,因此可在土壤掺八适量的骨粉、蛋壳粉等石灰质材料。 2、追肥:多肉植物在某个时期(开花时期)对养分的大量需要,补充基肥的不足。应根据不同的品种和生长期的差异进行。 3、缓释肥、有机肥等可以埋土里或放土表,液肥需要喷洒叶面或者浇根。 四、“Who"给什么品种施肥? 多肉植物的施肥需根据品种的差异,按不同季节进行。 入夏是龙舌兰科、仙人掌科、夹竹桃科、萝摩科等大多数品种多肉植物的生长旺季,但番杏科的生石花属、肉锥花属、对叶花属、百合科瓦苇属(十二卷属)的万象、玉扇等冷凉季节生长的”冬型种”多肉植物则逐渐进入休眠期或半休眠期,生长完全停滞或极为缓慢,所需要的养分不多。因此,对于“夏种型”一定要给予充足的水肥供应,“冬种型”则要停止施肥,以免造成烂根;而到了9月以后”冬型种”多肉植物则逐渐开始生长,应注意施肥,以提供充足的养分,促进植株的生长夏型种”多肉植物则逐渐进入休眠状态,就要停止施肥了。
五、“How”怎么施肥,施多少? 施肥一般是宁淡不浓,需要时可多施几次。多肉植物每次施肥量按体积可与每次的浇水量相当。施肥前盆土应基本干燥,先松土再施肥效果更好。肥料种类应视植株种类和生长阶段不同而选择,一般小苗期以氮肥为主,花芽分化期和开花结果期以磷钾肥为主。春天氮肥可多一些,越冬前氮肥要少施。叶多的多肉植物氮肥可稍多,而茎干状多肉植物和球形掌类植物应以磷钾肥为主。开花肥以磷肥、钾肥为主,其他元素为辅,最好以液态形式进行施用,以快速起效。可以选择的是花友、花多多之类的专业花肥,也可以直接施用磷酸二氢钾。 施用比例控制在1:2000左右,也就是1克肥料配2公斤水。这里要再次说明,有些大仙会认为1:1000的比例比较合适,但那是在大棚和温室栽培环境下,植物生长旺盛才可以用这个浓度,家庭环境下,植物吸收养分的速度远不比大棚和温室,所以能淡就尽量淡。 六、“Look"注意事项? 1、新上盆的植株以及生长不良、根部损伤者、茎叶有伤 口者、被红蜘蛛危害后已经全部呈铁锈色的自根栽培植株,均不可施肥。 2、有机肥必须充分腐熟后才可使用。 3、刚出土的小苗,在1个月内不要施肥。 4、在城市里不要使用臭气严重的肥料。 5、含有盐分的肉汤、菜汁和新鲜的牛奶、豆浆,不可作肥料使用。 6、新鲜的鸡蛋壳不要扣在盆土上作肥料。
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Miss Chen
01월17일
Miss Chen
Candy corn plant is a small semi-woody evergreen shrub that derives its name from the color and shape of the flowers, which closely mimic the familiar bulk candy by the same name. These are clumping plants with narrow leaves that cover upright red stems, from which bloom the yellow and red tubular flowers that resemble kernels of candy corn. Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators. How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala Common Name Candy corn plant Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Average, well-drained soil Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral Bloom Time Summer to fall Flower Color Orange and yellow Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA Native Area Mexico How to Grow Candy Corn Plants Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms. Light Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms. Soil In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils. Water Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving. Temperature and Humidity As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates. Fertilizer Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants. Propagating Candy Corn Plant Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks. If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location. Pruning Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring. Growing in Containers Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks. Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant. Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
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Miss Chen
01월15일
Miss Chen
The Plectranthus genus is large, with more than 350 species of annuals, perennials, semi-succulents, and shrubs from Africa, Madagascar, Asia, Australia, and Pacific Islands. Members of the genus come in a variety of colors and sizes. But the blue spur flower (Plectranthus barbatus) stands out for its large, upright bushy structure. Also known by the botanical name Coleus barbatus, this plant is native to Africa but has spread abundantly. These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers. Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors. Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 5 feet tall Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade Soil Type Rich, well-draining Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Late summer to early fall Flower Color Lavender Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy. Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures. Light Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens. For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results. Soil These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering. Water The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly. If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Temperature and Humidity Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost. As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter. Fertilizer The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely. Potting and Repotting The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage. Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must. Propagating Blue Spur Flower The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how: 1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length. 2. Remove the bottom leaves. 3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting. Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
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Miss Chen
01월14일
Miss Chen
Native to the North American grasslands, the silene plant is renowned for its colorful early summer blossoms. Most often referred to as the catchfly, the plant typically blooms in shades of pink, magenta, white, and red. The plant's sticky leaves and stems (which are what give this flower its memorable "catchfly" moniker) are actually not strong enough to catch a fly, nor do these flowers attract the pesky insects. They are, however, a favorite amongst hummingbirds and butterflies, so silene makes a perfect addition to either container plantings or pollinator gardens, which will offer a medium green foliage for many months after the plant first blooms. Though the plant often grows as an annual in both meadow and prairie settings, there are some silene varieties with strong perennial tendencies, so they'll reliably pop up in the same spot each spring. These varieties will self-seed readily. The silene's foliage makes its grand debut in early spring and continues to persist through the late summer, however be aware that some varieties may go completely dormant in the heat of summer. An ideal plant for any landscape, silene has a natural ability to withstand dry conditions. It does have a preference for the sun, and makes a great addition to rock gardens, curbside planting areas, and other full-sun garden beds. Try planting silene with options like aster, bee balm, cosmos, alyssum, and calendula for a truly stunning colorful flower display that lasts from the first days of summer all the way through fall. You may find silene plants listed by one of their other common names, which include Campion, Catchfly, Weed Silene, Fire Pink, Maiden's Tears, Rose of Heaven, Wild Pink, and None-So-Pretty.
Botanical Name Silene Common Name Campion, Catchfly, Weed Silene, Fire Pink Plant Type Perennial (sometimes annual) Mature Size Three-quarters of an inch to 4 feet tall, depending on variety Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade, depending on variety Soil Type Neutral to acidic, rich in humus Soil pH 5-7 Bloom Time Spring and Summer Flower Color Red, white, pink, sometimes blue Hardiness Zones 5-8 Native Area North American grasslands How to Grow Silene Plants The great news is that not only are these plants beautiful, but silene is also easy and economical to start from a seed planted in the garden in the springtime (as well as from transplants that were purchased at your local garden center). They're relatively easy to maintain—the requirements for successfully planting silene include good drainage, regular watering, and only occasional feed. After the flowers begin to bloom in the summer, you'll want to allow the flower stalks to stand upright, as it will encourage the plant to self-seed. However, you should plan to replace the perennial in your landscape every couple of years, as their flower production tends to decrease as they age.1 Light Silene grows best in either full sun or partial shade. If planting in Zones 7 and up, be sure to place your silene plants where they will receive some afternoon shade. Soil It's absolutely essential to plant silene in fertile, well-drained soil. Water These plants will suffer (and ultimately die out) in overly wet conditions, so be sure not to subject silene to an abundance of water.2 Ensure that the soil is completely dry in between your regular waterings. Temperature and Humidity This is a plant species that should be sown at the start of spring for summer flowering, or in autumn for spring flowering, as they will struggle to survive in extreme temperatures (as well as through excessive winter moisture).
Fertilizer You can give your silene plants an added boost by incorporating a granulated starter fertilizer (or an all-purpose feed) to encourage blooming. Potting and Repotting You should consider starting the seeds indoors, such as in flats with a high-quality potting soil. Timing is everything—you'll want to plant silene a minimum of eight weeks before the last expected frost, but then allow approximately 15 to 25 days for the seedlings to sprout before either transferring them into your garden or into a larger pot or container. Propagating Silene The propagation for silene can be done with either seeds or cutting. Seeds can be sown outdoors right after they're collected, or you can store, pretreat, and sow them later. Mature plants should be divided in either the late fall or early spring by removing their outer rosettes. Keep in mind that silene is a plant that tends to decline quickly after flowering, so it's usually best to flag the plant.3 Some Varieties of Silene Silene Latifolia (White Campion) Silene Viscaria (Sticky Catchfly) Silene Marmorensis (Marble Mountain Catchfly) Pruning Depending on the variety of silene, pruning will require snipping faded blooms individually or waiting until the blooming period is over before removing the entire flower stalk. The pruning process will help keep your silene plant's energy focused on growth as opposed to seed production.
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컴퓨터 터미널 운영으로 가십시오.

컴퓨터 터미널 운영으로 가십시오.

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